Naoshima: Japan's quiet island of modern art

Most visitors to Japan never make it to Naoshima. That's exactly why you should.

This small island in the Seto Inland Sea, about an hour by ferry from Uno Port in Okayama, has quietly become one of the world's most respected destinations for contemporary art. It's not hype. It's been building since the 1990s, when the Benesse Corporation began transforming the island into a living museum.

The Chichu Art Museum is the centrepiece. Designed by Tadao Ando and built almost entirely underground, it houses a permanent collection that includes five of Claude Monet's Water Lilies paintings. The architecture alone justifies the trip. Natural light shifts through concrete skylights throughout the day, changing how you experience each work.

Beyond Chichu, the Lee Ufan Museum and Benesse House Museum are both worth your time. Benesse House doubles as a hotel, so you can sleep surrounded by original artworks. Rooms book out months in advance, so plan accordingly.

The Art House Project is scattered across Honmura, the island's oldest village. Local buildings including a former dentist's office, a traditional home, and a shrine have been transformed into permanent art installations. You move through the village at your own pace, collecting entry stamps as you go.

Getting around is easy by rental bicycle. The island is small enough to cover in a day, but two days gives you room to slow down. There are a handful of good restaurants and cafes near the ferry terminal. Bring cash, as card acceptance is limited.

Naoshima works best in spring or autumn. Summer gets crowded and humid. The island is closed to most museum visitors on Mondays.

Skip the rushed Osaka-Kyoto-Tokyo circuit for once. Naoshima rewards the traveller who actually wants to feel something.